#7 - Israel 2018 (Holy Sepulchre, Calvary, Christ's Tomb)

We began our day with breakfast, followed by Morning Prayer in the Chapel of St. George’s. Our scripture reading today was from the Crucifixion of Jesus, as we prepare to visit the Holy Sepulcher (Church of the Resurrection); the place where Jesus was both crucified and laid in a tomb. Iyad gave us about an hour lecture about the Holy Sepulcher before we began our walk from St. George’s to the Old City. 

Iyad provided maps and explanations about why the Holy Sepulcher is the more likely place of both, as opposed to the Garden Tomb located a few blocks away. The location of the 1st century walls would place the Holy Sepulcher outside the walls (just as scripture states), but is the excuse some use for the Garden Tomb location outside the modern day walls. He also identified how the locations were determined over the thousands of years of destruction and rebuilding, using the significant monuments of other religions who had conquered the areas and marked those places with their own significant buildings, statues, monuments, etc. 

On our walk to Damascus Gate, we were treated to a cup of Carob tea from a vendor outside the gate. It was delicious and tasted like chocolate. I think we made the gentleman’s day with the purchase of 40 glasses. You have to see the the picture/video on Marcia’s Facebook page of the ornate dispenser he was using as he bowed in order to pour the drink. The market was bustling, and the smells were a diversity of trash, herbs and spices, food and incense. The winding paths, with both stone ramps next to stone steps, means extra vigilance as you dodge people, garbage 
collectors and other types of transportation on these small pathways. You’ve gotta see it to believe it. :)

First, we stopped in an area with a dome in the center of a courtyard, around which are cells where the Armenian Monks reside, and is the location of Calvary in the Holy Sepulchre below. We have to remember that things from the 1st century require excavation and are below. Helena, the mother of Constantine, mandated and was responsible for the excavation and reestablishment of these locations back in the 4th century.

From the front entrance, the large blue dome and topped with a large gold cross is the only thing ornate. Several stone columns on either side of 2 massive doors is all there is to see before entering the Holy Sepulchre from the courtyard. In the door is a small square that opens and closes, used by the monks to lock and unlock the doors. The keys to the Holy Sepulcher are held by a Muslim family, who pass a ladder through the hole to allow the monks to reach the locks to make this process happen at the beginning and ending of the day. 

Inside are some of the most ornate icons, hanging lights and thuribles, and mosaics; almost too much so. Hundreds of people are all trying to make their way up the steps to an altar over the place of Calvary, the site of the Crucifixion. Once we made our way up, we kneel beneath the altar, and stick our hand through the hole to reach down and touch the rock formation that part of Calvary. 

We visited the Chapel of Adam, below Calvary, which shows the split in the rocks behind the altar which occurred at the time of the Crucifixion. This location is also believed to be the burial place of Adam. There is also the Stone of Unction, the place where Jesus’ body was laid and prepared for burial with oils and spices. People of all Christian beliefs come and kneel to rub scarfs, bless gifts/icons, place their hands and even kiss the stone for prayers of healing.  The materials retain the fragrance of the stone so that upon smelling them in the future, it can bring back the memory.  

Christ’s Tomb sits opposite Calvary, and has long lines wrapped around it so that people can get in to even get a glimpse inside. You guessed it, He's not there! There are 6 denominations who share this one space, and I’m sure you’d be shocked to know that at times there are “scuffles”, and it has to be shut down.

We ended our day with a lecture on Islam by Farask Hamad, an Arab Palestinian Muslim, who also spoke of the struggles he faces living in the occupied territory, and how his life is impacted by walls and checkpoints. He spoke about the similarities to Christianity, and the challenge of extremism’s negative influence in allowing for peace and tolerance with other faiths and governments.